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Insight · Leather Jackets
The Leather Bomber Jacket: History, Styles, and How to Choose One
The short answer
A leather bomber jacket is a waist-length jacket with a zip front, ribbed or belted cuffs and hem, and a collar that either folds flat or carries shearling. It was built for military pilots between 1917 and 1945, and the four jackets from that era, the A-2, the G-1, the B-3 and the B-6, are still the templates for every bomber made today.
If you want one jacket for fall and most of winter, buy a lambskin bomber with a quilted lining. If you want the warmest jacket you will ever own, buy real shearling. Either way, look for full-grain leather, a lining you can feel, and a fit that closes over a sweater.
I have been making leather bomber jackets since 2009, and the question I get most is not about history. It is some version of "which one should I buy?" So this guide does both. It covers where the bomber came from, because that history is what makes the jacket worth owning, and then it gets practical: the four classic styles, what separates a good bomber from a cheap one, how it should fit, and how the bombers we make compare side by side.
Where the bomber jacket came from
In 1917 the U.S. Army set up the Aviation Clothing Board to dress pilots flying open-cockpit biplanes over France. The cockpits were unheated and the air at altitude was far below freezing, so the first flight jackets were heavy leather, often horsehide or sealskin, lined with fur. They were cold-weather gear, not fashion. That is still the right way to think about a bomber.
Two decades later, the jackets got their names. In 1931 the Army issued the A-2, a horsehide jacket with a shirt-style collar, knit cuffs and waistband, and a snap-flap over the zipper. In 1934 came the B-3, a thick sheepskin coat with the wool left on, made for bomber crews flying at 25,000 feet in unpressurized B-17s. The B-3 is the jacket that gave the whole category its name. The Navy followed with the G-1, a goatskin jacket with a mouton fur collar and a bi-swing back for reach, and the Army lightened the B-3 into the B-6 for crews who needed warmth without the bulk.
After the war, surplus flight jackets came home with the men who wore them, and the bomber crossed over into civilian life. Marlon Brando, James Dean and, later, Tom Cruise in Top Gun did the rest. The jacket has never gone out of production since, which is rare for anything in menswear.
For the longer version, read The History of Bomber Jackets.
The four classic bomber styles
Almost every leather bomber sold today descends from one of these four. Knowing which one you are looking at tells you what the jacket is for.
| Style | Issued | Leather | Collar | Cuffs and hem | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A-2 | 1931, Army Air Corps | Horsehide, later goat and cow | Shirt-style, leather | Knit | Three-season wear, the cleanest look |
| B-3 | 1934, Army Air Corps | Sheepskin shearling | Wide shearling, with straps | Leather straps, no knit | Real winter, below freezing |
| G-1 | 1940s, Navy | Goatskin | Mouton fur, bi-swing back | Knit | Fall and winter, the Top Gun look |
| B-6 | 1939, Army Air Corps | Lighter sheepskin shearling | Shearling, single latch | Knit or strap | Cold weather without B-3 bulk |
One more worth naming: the MA-1, the nylon flight jacket the Air Force issued in the 1950s once jets made leather too hot in the cockpit. It is where the word "bomber" picked up its sage-green, orange-lined association. It is a fine jacket. It is not a leather bomber, and it will not last forty years.
What separates a good leather bomber from a cheap one
The leather
Start with the hide. A good bomber is made from full-grain leather, which keeps the outer layer of the hide intact so the jacket wears in rather than wearing out. Lambskin is the softest and lightest, and it drapes well from day one. Goatskin is tougher and a little stiffer. Cowhide is the heaviest and takes the longest to break in, but it is the hide you hand down. Avoid anything labeled "genuine leather," which is a grade, not a compliment, and avoid bonded leather entirely. Our guide to spotting fake leather covers the tells.
The lining
Leather blocks wind but does not insulate much on its own. The lining does that. A cheap bomber has a thin polyester lining that adds nothing. A good one has a quilted lining with a layer of fill, which is the difference between a jacket for 55°F and a jacket for 40°F. Shearling is the top of the ladder: the wool is the insulation, and nothing synthetic matches it. See are leather jackets warm? for a temperature guide.
The hardware and the knit
Zippers take more abuse than any other part of a jacket. Look for YKK or equivalent metal zippers, not plastic. Ribbed cuffs and waistband should be a dense knit that springs back; loose, thin ribbing is the first thing to sag on a budget jacket. A detachable collar is worth having if you live anywhere with a real fall and a real winter, because it turns one jacket into two.
The fit
A bomber is cut short and a little full through the body on purpose. The ribbed hem should sit at your belt, not below it, and the shoulder seam should land on the point of your shoulder. You should be able to zip it over a flannel or a sweater without pulling across the chest, because that is how you will wear it from November on. If the sleeves pool at the wrist, size down. Our leather jacket fit guide and sizing guide go deeper.
A note on color. Brown, distressed brown and black are the three bomber colors that will still look right in twenty years. Brown goes with jeans, khakis and boots; black reads sharper and works with darker denim. If you are buying your first bomber, buy brown. Our brown leather jacket guide explains why.
Our leather bomber jackets, compared
We make two bomber families: the Maverick, a lambskin bomber in the A-2 and G-1 tradition with a detachable sherpa collar, and the Shearling Leather Bomber, a modern B-3 in real merino sheepskin. The Legacy, our cowhide flight jacket, is the A-2's closest cousin in the lineup.
| Jacket | Lineage | Leather | Lining and collar | Warmth | Fit note | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maverick Leather Bomber | A-2 / G-1 | Full-grain lambskin, distressed finish | Quilted nylon lining, ribbed cuffs and waist, detachable sherpa collar | Mid, into the 40s with a sweater | Runs roomy; size down if between sizes | $429.95 |
| Maverick Leather Bomber, Vintage Black | A-2 / G-1 | Full-grain lambskin | Quilted lining, ribbed cuffs and waist, detachable sherpa collar | Mid | Runs roomy | $429.95 |
| Limited Maverick, Buffalo Grain | A-2 / G-1 | Full-grain water buffalo | Quilted lining, ribbed cuffs and waist, detachable sherpa collar | Mid | Thicker hide, stiffer break-in | $479.95 |
| Legacy Leather Flight Jacket | A-2 | Full-grain cowhide, nearly 2 mm | Polyester blend lining, zippered cuffs, antique brass | Light to mid | Runs small; size up | $489.95 |
| Shearling Leather Bomber | B-3 | Merino sheepskin shearling, full-grain exterior | Natural merino wool interior, shearling collar, YKK zippers, snap waist | Warmest, well below freezing | True to size | $899.95 |
Prices as of October 2026. Every jacket above is real leather. The shearling bombers come in Whiskey Brown, Grizzly Brown, Sandstone Brown, Espresso Brown and Black; the Maverick comes in Distressed Brown, Vintage Black and the limited Buffalo Grain. See the full leather bomber jacket collection.
Shop Leather Bomber Jackets
Lambskin Mavericks with a detachable sherpa collar, and B-3 style shearling bombers in real merino sheepskin. Full-grain leather, nothing bonded or faux.
From $429.95
Shop Bomber JacketsHow to wear a leather bomber
The bomber is the easiest leather jacket to wear because it was designed to go over a uniform shirt and under nothing. A few combinations that always work:
- The original. A white or gray tee, dark jeans, and leather boots. This is the G-1 look from Top Gun, and it has not needed updating.
- Fall layering. A flannel shirt or a wool henley under the bomber, with the collar off. When the temperature drops, snap the sherpa collar on.
- Dressed up a notch. A brown Maverick over an oxford shirt and chinos, with leather boots. The ribbed hem keeps it casual; the oxford keeps it sharp.
- Deep winter. A shearling bomber over a crewneck wool sweater. You will not need anything else.
Two rules. Keep the rest of the outfit simple, since the jacket is already the loudest thing you are wearing. And match the leather to your boots in tone, not exactly. Brown with brown, black with black. For more combinations, read what to wear with a leather jacket.
Caring for a leather bomber
A bomber needs less care than people think, and it needs it on a schedule. Condition the leather every three to six months with a leather conditioner, more often in dry climates. If it gets wet, blot it and let it dry on a wide hanger at room temperature, never near heat. Clean a sherpa collar separately with a damp cloth, and never put shearling in a washer. Store it on a wide hanger in a closet, not a garment bag that traps moisture. The full routine is in how to clean a leather jacket and how to store a leather jacket.
What owners say
The Maverick Leather Bomber holds a 4.7 out of 5 from 121 reviews, the Shearling Leather Bomber a 4.9 from 48, and the Legacy a 4.8 from 177.
"I was actually blown away by the quality of this jacket, as soon as I tried it on I was like this is the nicest jacket I've ever worn."
Brady H., Maverick Leather Bomber"As soon as you put it on you know how warm it is for how light it is."
Cameron B., Shearling Leather BomberThe most common note on the Maverick is that it runs a little big, which is why we say size down if you are between sizes. The most common note on the Legacy is the opposite. Read the fit line on each product page before you order.
Frequently asked questions
What is a leather bomber jacket?
A leather bomber jacket is a waist-length leather jacket with a front zipper, ribbed or belted cuffs and hem, and either a flat collar or a shearling collar. The style was developed for U.S. military pilots between 1917 and 1945 and is based on four issued jackets: the A-2, B-3, G-1 and B-6.
Why is it called a bomber jacket?
The name comes from the B-3, the sheepskin jacket issued in 1934 to bomber crews flying at high altitude in unheated aircraft. The term later spread to all military flight jackets, including the A-2 and G-1 worn by fighter pilots.
What is the difference between a bomber jacket and a flight jacket?
In practice they are the same family. "Flight jacket" is the military term for any jacket issued to aircrew. "Bomber jacket" started as the name for the heavy shearling B-3 and became the everyday word for the whole style. A leather A-2 can correctly be called either.
What is the difference between a bomber jacket and an aviator jacket?
An aviator jacket usually means a bomber with a shearling or fur collar, like the G-1 or B-3. A bomber with a plain leather collar, like the A-2, is less often called an aviator. The terms overlap and most brands use them loosely.
Is a leather bomber jacket warm?
It depends on the lining. A lambskin bomber with a quilted lining is comfortable from about 40°F to 60°F with a sweater underneath. A shearling bomber, where the sheepskin wool is the insulation, is warm well below freezing and is the warmest leather jacket you can buy.
What leather is best for a bomber jacket?
Full-grain leather of any hide. Lambskin is the softest and lightest and feels broken in from day one. Goatskin is tougher. Cowhide is the heaviest and longest lasting. For winter, merino sheepskin shearling is best because the wool insulates. Avoid "genuine leather" grades and bonded leather.
How should a leather bomber jacket fit?
Short and slightly full. The ribbed hem should sit at the belt line, the shoulder seam on the point of the shoulder, and the cuffs at the wrist bone. You should be able to zip it over a flannel or sweater without pulling across the chest. If the sleeves pool at the wrist, go down a size.
Should I size up or down in a leather bomber jacket?
Check the fit note for the specific jacket. Our Maverick runs roomy, so size down if you are between sizes. Our Legacy flight jacket runs small, so size up. Our Shearling Leather Bomber is true to size.
Can you wear a leather bomber jacket in the rain?
Light rain is fine. Blot the water off and let the jacket dry at room temperature on a wide hanger, away from heaters. Heavy rain is hard on leather and on shearling, so wear a shell on truly wet days. Condition the leather after it dries.
How long does a leather bomber jacket last?
A full-grain leather bomber that is conditioned a few times a year and stored on a wide hanger will last decades. Original A-2 and B-3 jackets from the 1940s are still worn today. The parts that fail first on cheap jackets are the ribbed knit and the zippers, which is why those are worth checking before you buy.
Xan Hood founded Buffalo Jackson Trading Co. in 2009 and has spent the years since designing leather bags, jackets and the everyday gear a man carries, driven by a passion to see men come alive in the outdoors. He writes about the craft behind that gear and the wild places it's made for.