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Insight · Fall Layering
What Is a Shirt Jac?
The short answer
A shirt jac is a heavy shirt cut to be worn as a light jacket. It has a shirt collar and button front like a flannel, but it is made from thicker fabric, usually brushed wool or a wool blend, and cut with enough room to go over a tee, a flannel, or a sweater.
It is the piece for fall weather that is too cool for a shirt and too warm for a coat. Worn over a tee, it covers the 50s. Over a flannel or sweater, it handles the 40s. Below that, you want a real jacket on top.
Every October, the same thing happens. The morning is cold enough for a coat, and by noon you are carrying it. The shirt jac fixes that. It is warm enough for a frosty morning, light enough to keep on all day, and it looks right at a job site, a tailgate, or dinner. This guide covers what a shirt jac is, how it differs from an overshirt, a shacket, and a chore coat, how warm it really is, how to wear it, and how our own shirt jacs compare so you can pick the right one.
Shirt jac, overshirt, shacket, chore coat: what's the difference?
These names get used as if they mean the same thing. They overlap, but there are real differences in weight and in how each one is meant to be worn.
| Typical fabric | Weight | Worn as | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shirt jac | Brushed wool, wool blend, heavy flannel | Heavy | A light jacket or a heavy shirt, open or buttoned |
| Overshirt | Cotton twill, flannel, light wool | Light to mid | A shirt layered over a tee, usually open |
| Shacket | Anything from fleece to quilted cotton | Varies | A retail name for a shirt-jacket hybrid |
| CPO shirt | Heavy navy wool | Heavy | A wool shirt jac based on the one issued to U.S. Navy chief petty officers |
| Chore coat | Cotton canvas, moleskin, duck | Mid to heavy | A boxy work jacket with patch pockets, worn as outerwear |
In short: a shirt jac is a shirt built heavy enough to be a jacket. An overshirt is a shirt you layer. A shacket is a marketing word for either one. A chore coat is a jacket, full stop. At Buffalo Jackson we say shirt jac because it is the old workwear name, and it says what the thing is.
How warm is a shirt jac? A fall temperature guide
This is the question we get most. The honest answer depends on the fabric, what you wear under it, and the wind. Here is the rule of thumb we use, based on our heavyweight brushed wool shirt jacs.
| Temperature | What to wear | From our lineup |
|---|---|---|
| 60°F and up | A flannel on its own. A shirt jac will be too warm buttoned. | Fairbanks Flannel |
| 50 to 60°F | Shirt jac over a tee or henley. Wear it open or buttoned. | Riverton or Yukon Wool Shirt Jac |
| 40 to 50°F | Shirt jac over a flannel or a thin wool sweater, buttoned up. | Yukon over a Fairbanks, or a lined Aberdeen |
| 30s°F | Shirt jac plus a vest, or a lined wool jacket. Fine for short stretches outside. | Aberdeen Wool Jacket, or a shirt jac with the Laramie Vest |
| Below 30°F | Use the shirt jac as a mid layer under a real coat. | Under the Bridger Leather Down Jacket |
One Riverton owner, Richard B., wrote that he wore his on a 39-degree day with a wind chill of 33 and "it felt great outdoors." That matches what we see. With a layer underneath, a heavy wool shirt jac goes further than most people expect. Wind is what beats it, since a shirt jac has no windproof layer.
How to wear a shirt jac
Open over a tee or henley
The easiest way to wear it. Leave it unbuttoned over a plain tee or henley with jeans and boots. It works as a light jacket from September into October.
Buttoned as a shirt
On a cold morning, button it all the way up and wear it as a heavy shirt over a tee. It looks clean and holds the heat in. Tuck it only if it is thin enough to sit flat. Most heavy shirt jacs look better untucked.
Over a flannel or sweater
This is where the shirt jac earns its keep. Put it over a flannel or a crewneck wool sweater and you have a warm, layered outfit that works from the deer stand to the dinner table. Pick patterns that don't compete. A solid shirt jac over a plaid flannel, or a plaid shirt jac over a solid sweater.
Under a vest or coat
When it gets truly cold, the shirt jac becomes your middle layer. Add a quilted leather vest for warmth in the core, or wear it under a down or leather jacket.
Dressed up
A solid wool shirt jac over an oxford shirt with dark chinos is sharp enough for most offices and restaurants. It does the job of a sport coat without the formality.
Buffalo Jackson shirt jacs compared
We make three wool shirt jacs and a lined wool jacket in the same family, plus a few cotton options for milder climates. Here is how they stack up.
| Riverton | Yukon | Aberdeen Twill | Aberdeen Jacket | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fabric | Brushed wool blend, 45% wool / 55% polyester | Brushed wool blend, 45% wool / 55% polyester | Wool-blend twill, 55% wool / 45% polyester | 100% wool |
| Look | Solid tones and herringbone | Buffalo check and plaids | Heritage plaids | Heritage plaids |
| Lining | Nylon interior trim | Nylon interior trim | Quilted soft nylon lining | Quilted polyester lining |
| Closure | Horn buttons | Horn buttons | Horn buttons, adjustable cuffs | Zipper and snap front |
| Best for | The everyday shirt jac, easy to dress up | The classic camp look, most layering room | Cooler days, over a dress shirt | The 30s, worn as a jacket |
| Sizing | Between sizes, size up | Between sizes, size up | Between sizes, size up | Wears a full size big, size down |
| Price | $174.95 | $184.95 | $184.95 | $279.95 |
The Yukon, plaid by plaid
The Yukon is our most-reviewed shirt jac, and it comes in more plaids than any other we make. Here are four of them out in the field. Same heavyweight brushed wool blend, same horn buttons, same $184.95.
See every Yukon plaid in the shirt jac collection.
For milder climates: the cotton shirt jacs
If your fall rarely drops below 50, wool can be more than you need. The Gunner Cotton Twill Shirt Jac ($109.95) is heavyweight cotton chamois twill and runs large. The Bradford Corduroy Shirt Jac ($99.95) is 11-wale cotton corduroy with suede elbow patches and an oversized cut for layering. The Huntington Quilted Shirt Jac ($89.95) has a quilted cotton exterior and snap front.
Shop Shirt Jacs
Riverton, Yukon, and Aberdeen wool shirt jacs, plus cotton twill, corduroy, and quilted options.
From $89.95
Shop All Shirt JacsWhat owners say
The Yukon Wool Shirt Jac holds a 4.6 out of 5 rating from 89 reviews, and the Riverton a 4.8 from 12.
"Bought a large and fits great. Today was 39 degrees with a windchill of 33. Wore this and it felt great outdoors."
Richard B., Riverton"This is a great Shacket. Very warm."
Cameron S., Yukon, 6'3" and 220 lbs, wears an XL"True fit looks absolutely great with a pair of jeans and boots."
Daniel E., RivertonThe most common note in the reviews is about sizing. A number of Yukon owners said they wished they had sized up to fit a sweatshirt or heavy flannel underneath. Owen B. put it plainly: "Definitely order one size up if you want to wear a sweatshirt or the like underneath." If you plan to layer, take that advice. One owner also wanted bigger pockets for a phone. Fair point.
How to care for a wool shirt jac
- Wash it rarely. Wool resists odor. Air it out between wears and spot clean small marks.
- When you do wash it, follow the care label. Cold water on a gentle cycle or hand wash, with a wool-safe detergent.
- Never use high heat. Hot water and a hot dryer are how wool shrinks. Lay it flat to dry.
- Brush it. A soft clothes brush lifts dirt and keeps the brushed finish looking right.
- Store it folded or on a wide hanger so the shoulders keep their shape, and use cedar to keep moths out over the summer.
For the flannel you wear underneath, see how to wash flannel.
Frequently asked questions
What is a shirt jac?
A shirt jac is a heavyweight shirt designed to be worn as a light jacket. It has a shirt collar, button front, and chest pockets, but it is cut from thick fabric like brushed wool, with room to layer over a tee, flannel, or sweater.
What is the difference between a shirt jac and an overshirt?
Weight and purpose. An overshirt is a shirt layered over a tee, usually in lighter cotton or flannel. A shirt jac is heavier, often wool, and built to do the job of a light jacket. Every shirt jac can be worn as an overshirt, but not every overshirt is warm enough to be a shirt jac.
Is a shacket the same as a shirt jac?
Mostly. "Shacket" is a newer retail term for any shirt-jacket hybrid, from light fleece to quilted cotton. "Shirt jac" is the older name, and usually means a heavier wool or flannel version.
What temperature is a shirt jac good for?
Worn over a tee, a heavyweight wool shirt jac is comfortable from about 50 to 60°F. Over a flannel or sweater, it handles the 40s. In the 30s, add a vest or choose a lined wool jacket. Below freezing, wear it as a mid layer under a coat.
Should I size up in a shirt jac?
If you plan to layer a flannel or sweater underneath, yes. For the Riverton, Yukon, and Aberdeen Twill shirt jacs, we recommend sizing up if you are between sizes. The Aberdeen Wool Jacket is the exception. It wears a full size big, so order one size down.
Can you wear a shirt jac as a jacket?
Yes. That is the point of it. In fall weather, a wool shirt jac worn over a shirt or sweater replaces a light jacket. It will not block hard wind or rain like a shell or a leather jacket.
Should a shirt jac be tucked in?
Usually not. A shirt jac is cut to be worn untucked, like a jacket. Tuck only a lighter one worn buttoned as a shirt, and only if it sits flat.
Is a wool shirt jac itchy?
Brushed wool blends are much softer than old-style scratchy wool. The Riverton and Yukon are brushed for softness and have nylon interior trim. If you are sensitive to wool, wear a long-sleeve tee or flannel underneath so it never touches your skin.
How do you wash a wool shirt jac?
As rarely as you can. Air it out between wears and spot clean. When it needs a wash, follow the care label, use cold water and a wool-safe detergent, and lay it flat to dry. Never put wool in a hot dryer.
What should I wear with a shirt jac?
Jeans or chinos and boots are the classic pairing. Underneath, wear a tee or henley in early fall, and a flannel or crewneck wool sweater as it gets colder. Pair a solid shirt jac with a patterned flannel, or a plaid shirt jac with a solid layer, so the patterns don't clash.
Xan Hood founded Buffalo Jackson Trading Co. in 2009. He designs our shirt jacs, flannels, and outerwear in Matthews, North Carolina.