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Insight · Fit & Sizing
How Should a Leather Jacket Fit? Quick Guide
The short answer
A leather jacket should fit close but not tight. The shoulder seams sit at or just past the edge of your shoulders, it zips comfortably over a shirt or light sweater, the hem lands at your belt line, and the sleeves end at your wrist bone.
Leather gives a little with wear, so start snug rather than loose. A jacket that is too big will only get bigger.
When you invest in a leather jacket, first you want to be sure you’re getting a well-made jacket. Next, you want to be sure it fits properly. Do the same rules apply to how a leather jacket should fit as to other jackets or outerwear? Not necessarily. Read on for details.
No matter your age, style, or location, a leather jacket is a wardrobe essential. So, if you’re about to purchase one, you want to make sure it fits well.
How should a leather jacket fit?
Leather will stretch over time, so you never want to start with a leather jacket that is too big. But that obviously doesn’t mean you want a jacket that’s too small! It’s also important to allow room for layers under your leather jacket. Here are a few specific tips for finding a leather jacket that fits just right:
Shoulders
Suit coat rules do not apply to leather jackets, so it’s fine if the shoulder comes down your arm a few inches. However, even though the leather will give over time, if the shoulder seam is higher than your shoulder, the jacket is too small.
CHEST
Leather jackets ought to fit a bit more snugly through the chest than a regular overcoat, but consider the types of layers you may want to wear underneath. Also, you should be able to comfortably zip or button your leather jacket all the way up, even if you plan to wear it open.
HEM LENGTH
The bottom of your leather jacket should not reach below the bottom of your belt / top of your thigh. This is likely shorter than other overcoats you’ve owned, but unless you’re wearing a long leather trench coat, a leather jacket that hangs well below the belt is too big.
SLEEVE LENGTH
The proper sleeve length on a leather jacket is consistent with pretty much any jacket: sleeves should end at your wrist. Any shorter, and your underneath layers will stick out (unless those sleeves are too short as well, in which case you may really need to consider our lesson on measurements below). Sleeves that extend past your wrist give the appearance that you’re wearing a beloved hand-me-down from someone at least a size bigger than you.
How to Properly Take Measurements for Sizing
If you’re shopping in person, you will obviously have the chance to try on different sizes and styles of leather jackets to get the perfect fit. But if you’re shopping online, as most of us do these days, you’ll want to know your measurements to help ensure a great fit. Keep in mind, however, those measurements will only be helpful if they are taken correctly. Here’s how to get accurate measurements for jacket sizing:
1. USE A CLOTH OR PAPER MEASURING TAPE.
Do not use a metal tape measure. (Those are great for measuring flat surfaces; not so great for taking body measurements.) Also, don’t let the tape hang loose when you’re measuring, but avoid pulling the tape excessively tight as well.
2. MEASURE THE CHEST.
For the chest measurement, you will be measuring the full circumference of your chest. Begin with one end of the measuring tape at the fullest part of your chest. Then, keeping the tape level, wrap it around (under your armpits, around your shoulder blades, and back to the front) to get the measurement.
3. MEASURE THE WAIST.
When measuring the waist, you will be measuring the full circumference of your natural waist. Note that your natural waist is below your rib cage and above your belly button. Many people erroneously measure below their belly button. (If you’re not sure exactly where to measure, bend to the side; your natural waistline is where the crease forms.) Like with the chest measurement, begin with one end of the measuring tape at the front, then keep the tape level as you circle your waist all the way back around to the front. (If you’re trying to get an accurate number, don’t suck in when you measure!)
4. MEASURE the sleeve length.
Accurately measuring sleeve length is tough to do by yourself, so ask someone to help with this one. This measurement includes more than just the length of your arm! Beginning with one end of the tape at the center of the top of your back (the middle of the base of the back of your neck), measure across to your shoulder and then down to your wrist. This entire length is your sleeve length measurement.
Now that you have your measurements in hand, check out our selection of MEN'S LEATHER JACKETS—all with sizing guides provided.
Frequently asked questions
Should a leather jacket be tight or loose?
Snug, not tight. You should be able to zip it and move your arms freely over a shirt or thin sweater. Leather stretches a little with wear, so a jacket that feels roomy on day one will feel loose in a year.
Where should the shoulder seams sit on a leather jacket?
At the edge of your shoulders or slightly past them. Leather jackets are more forgiving than a suit coat here, but if the seam sits up on top of your shoulder, the jacket is too small.
How long should a leather jacket be?
Most leather jackets should end at your belt line or the top of your thigh. Bombers and moto jackets sit at the waist, while field jackets and car coats run a bit longer.
How long should the sleeves be on a leather jacket?
The sleeves should end at your wrist bone with your arms at your sides. Too short and your shirt cuffs show; too long and the leather bunches at the wrist.
Should I size up in a leather jacket to wear a sweater underneath?
Only if you plan to wear heavy layers like a thick sweater or hoodie. For a shirt or light sweater, buy your true size. Check the size chart on each jacket, since fits vary by style.
Does a leather jacket stretch over time?
A little. Leather softens and gives through the shoulders, elbows, and chest as you wear it, but it will not stretch a full size. Buy for the fit you want now.
How do I measure myself for a leather jacket?
Use a soft tape. Measure your chest around the fullest part under your arms, your natural waist, and your sleeve length from the center back of your neck, over the shoulder, to your wrist. Compare those numbers to the size chart.
Should a leather jacket close all the way?
Yes. You should be able to zip or button it fully over a light layer without the leather pulling across the chest or stomach, even if you usually wear it open.
Xan Hood founded Buffalo Jackson Trading Co. in 2009. He designs our leather jackets and outerwear in Matthews, North Carolina.