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How to Choose a Leather Bag: 3 Things to Check
The short answer
Check three things before you buy a leather bag. First, the leather: full-grain is the toughest and ages best, top-grain is second, and bonded leather should be avoided. Second, the hardware: buckles, rings and zippers should be solid, smooth and strong. Third, the style: the bag should fit how you actually carry your day, whether that's a laptop to the office, a camera in the field or a weekend away.
People have carried their gear in leather for as long as they've had gear to carry. Shepherds carried a scrip. Mountain men carried a possibles bag of deerskin or bison. The duffle, the pilot bag, the doctor bag, the messenger and the briefcase all started out in leather for the same reason: it lasted longer. A good leather bag still does. The trick is knowing what separates a good one from one that only looks good in the photo.
Watch: 3 Tips for Buying a Leather Bag
- 0:08Why bags have always been leather
- 0:58Tip 1: Quality of leather
- 1:06Tip 2: Quality of hardware
- 1:19Tip 3: Style with purpose
1. Check the quality of the leather
This matters more than anything else on the bag. Leather is sold in grades, and the label doesn't always tell you which one you're getting.
| Grade | What it is | How it holds up |
|---|---|---|
| Full-grain | The whole top layer of the hide, with the natural grain left on. | The toughest leather you can buy. Develops a rich patina over years of use. |
| Top-grain | The top layer with the surface sanded and refinished. | Second toughest. Smoother and more uniform, but ages less. |
| Genuine / corrected | Lower layers or heavily sanded hides with a painted or embossed surface. | Real leather, but a lower grade. Wears through rather than wearing in. |
| Bonded | Leather scraps ground up and glued to a backing. | Peels and flakes. Avoid it in a bag you want to keep. |
Top-grain sounds like it should be better than full-grain. It isn't. For the full breakdown, read full grain vs. top grain leather and how to tell real leather from bonded.
What to look for:
- Visible grain, pores and small natural marks. A perfectly uniform surface usually means it's been corrected or isn't leather at all.
- Edges that show fibers, not a layer of fabric or foam glued between two thin skins.
- A label that names the grade. If a bag only says "genuine leather," ask what grade it is.
- Don't rely on smell alone. Synthetic leathers can be scented to smell like the real thing.
2. Check the quality of the hardware
A bag is only as strong as the parts holding it together. Leather can last decades. A cheap buckle or zipper can fail in a year.
- Is it solid? Pick it up. Good buckles, D-rings and clasps have real weight. Thin, hollow or plated parts tend to bend, chip and break.
- Is it brass or steel? Solid brass and steel hold up and age well. Plated zinc alloys are cheaper and wear through.
- How does it open and close? Work every zipper, snap and buckle. They should move smoothly and close securely. A new zipper can feel a little stiff at first, but it shouldn't catch or skip.
- Where does it attach? Look at where straps meet the bag. Rivets and reinforced stitching at stress points are what keep a loaded bag from tearing.
- Do you like how it looks? You'll see it every day. It should suit the bag and suit you.
3. Choose a style with a purpose
Everyone has a style, and a bag should fit yours. But it also has to fit what you carry. The right bag for a photographer is the wrong bag for a lawyer.
| If you carry | Look at | Why |
|---|---|---|
| A laptop and papers to an office | Briefcase or messenger | A briefcase keeps things separated. A messenger is faster to get into. See messenger or briefcase. |
| A laptop plus a change of clothes | Pilot bag | Wide opening and room for more than a laptop. |
| Gear for a weekend away | Duffle or weekender | One big compartment that packs flat. See how to pack a duffle. |
| Everything, hands-free | Backpack or rucksack | Weight on both shoulders for long walks and travel days. |
Want more detail on a specific style? Read our briefcase buying guide, messenger bag buying guide, or best men's work bags.
Your leather bag checklist
- Full-grain or top-grain leather, with the grade named
- Natural grain you can see and feel
- Solid brass or steel hardware that works smoothly
- Rivets or reinforced stitching where the straps attach
- A shape and size that fits what you carry every day
- A style you'll be proud to carry for years
Bags worth a look
Roosevelt Full-Grain Leather Laptop Messenger
Roosevelt Buffalo Leather Pilot Bag
Roosevelt Buffalo Leather Travel Duffle
Or browse all leather bags.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best type of leather for a bag?
Full-grain leather. It keeps the strongest part of the hide, resists wear best, and develops a patina with use. Top-grain is the next best choice.
Is top-grain leather better than full-grain?
No. The name is misleading. Top-grain has had its surface sanded and refinished, which makes it smoother but less durable than full-grain.
Is "genuine leather" good quality?
Genuine leather is real leather, but it's usually a lower grade made from the lower layers of the hide. It won't last or age like full-grain.
How can I tell if a bag is real leather?
Look for uneven grain and small natural marks, check the cut edges for fibers, and read the label for the grade. Smell alone isn't reliable, since synthetics can be scented.
What hardware should a good leather bag have?
Solid brass or steel buckles and rings, smooth zippers from a reputable maker, and rivets or reinforced stitching where straps attach.
How long should a good leather bag last?
With basic care, a well-made full-grain bag should last many years, and the leather often looks better with age. Read how long leather really lasts.
Should I buy a messenger bag or a briefcase?
Choose a messenger if you're in and out of the bag all day and want it cross-body. Choose a briefcase if you want your laptop kept separate from everything else.