Field Notes · Materials

7 Benefits of Shearling Jackets (and 3 Honest Drawbacks)

Shearling is the oldest cold-weather material there is. People were wearing sheepskin with the wool on five thousand years ago, and air forces were still issuing it to bomber crews in the 1940s. It has lasted that long because nothing else does quite as many things well at once.

Here is what shearling does better than anything else, and where it falls short, so you can decide whether it belongs in your closet.

1. Natural insulation

Wool fibers are crimped, which means each one is wavy rather than straight. Packed densely on a sheepskin, they hold countless small pockets of still air, and still air is what keeps you warm. Merino shearling is especially dense, which is why a good shearling jacket feels warmer than its weight suggests.

That is not marketing. It is why the U.S. Army Air Corps put its bomber crews in sheepskin B-3 jackets for missions at 25,000 feet in unheated aircraft.

2. Built-in wind protection

Most warm jackets need two parts: an insulating layer and a shell to stop the wind. Shearling is both at once. The hide on the outside is dense enough to block wind on its own, and the wool on the inside holds the heat. A sweater, a fleece or a sherpa lining can't do that without a shell over it.

3. It regulates temperature

This is the benefit people notice after a week of wearing one. Wool can absorb around 30 percent of its own weight in water vapor without feeling damp. When it absorbs moisture from your body it releases a small amount of heat, and when the air around it dries it gives the moisture back.

In practice, that means a shearling jacket stays comfortable walking from a cold street into a warm store and back out again. Synthetic insulation, which absorbs almost no moisture, is more likely to leave you clammy indoors and chilled when you step outside.

4. It handles weather and dirt

Wool is coated in lanolin, a natural wax that repels water. Snow and light rain bead up and shake off, and finished leather-out shearling sheds water even better. The same properties help shearling resist dirt: the lanolin and the structure of the fiber make it harder for grime to stick.

Shearling is water resistant, not waterproof. A soaking needs to dry slowly, away from heat. Our care guide covers exactly what to do.

5. It resists odor

Wool absorbs odor molecules and releases them when aired, and it doesn't give bacteria the easy home that polyester does. A shearling jacket worn all winter usually needs nothing more than a night hanging in fresh air.

6. It's naturally flame resistant

Wool is one of the most flame-resistant natural fibers. It is hard to ignite and tends to smolder and self-extinguish rather than burn. Polyester, by contrast, melts. If you spend evenings around a campfire or a wood stove, that is worth knowing.

7. It lasts for decades

A well made shearling jacket is one of the most durable garments you can own. The hide is tough, the wool is resilient, and good shearling softens and molds to you over the years instead of wearing out. It's common for shearling jackets to be passed down.

There is a sustainability argument in that longevity too. Shearling is a by-product of the meat industry, using hides that would otherwise be thrown away, and one jacket worn for twenty years replaces several cheaper ones that end up in a landfill.

The honest drawbacks

1. It costs more

A real shearling jacket takes several hides and weeks of tanning and finishing. Expect $700 to $1,500 for a good one. The way to think about it is cost per winter: a $900 jacket worn for twenty winters is $45 a year.

2. It's heavier than down

Down is still the warmest insulation for its weight. Shearling is heavier, which matters for backpacking or packing a suitcase. For everyday wear, most people come to like the weight.

3. It needs some care

No washing machine, no radiator, no ordinary dry cleaner, and it wants a wide hanger and a breathable bag in summer. That's about it, but it isn't a jacket you can throw in the wash.

Shearling vs. down vs. synthetic vs. sherpa

Lifespans and prices are typical ranges, not guarantees. Down and synthetic jackets win for technical and backcountry use. Shearling wins for everyday winter wear, style and longevity.

So, is a shearling jacket worth it?

If you live somewhere with a real winter, you'll wear it most days from December through February, and you want to buy a coat once, yes. If your winters are mild, a shearling vest or a sherpa-lined leather jacket may be all you need. If you need something to stuff in a backpack, buy down.

Real merino shearling

Bombers, blazers, a barn coat and vests, all merino sheepskin tanned in Turkey. Rated 4.9 across the bomber line. From $549.95

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Common questions

Xan Hood founded Buffalo Jackson Trading Co. in 2009 and leads product development on its leather and shearling outerwear. He writes about materials and how the things we wear are actually made.