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Insight · Buying Guide
Briefcase Buying Guide: How to Choose a Leather Briefcase
The short answer
To choose a leather briefcase, decide four things in this order: the type (slim attaché, belted briefcase bag, pilot bag, or lightweight bag), the leather (always full-grain), the size (measure your laptop’s body, not its screen), and the weight you are willing to carry. Then check the hardware, zippers, lining, and strap.
A good full-grain leather briefcase costs about $250 to $400 and should last for decades.
Like it or not, a briefcase says a lot about the man who carries it: whether he has his business in order, and whether he has a lick of style. You should carry a bag you are proud of, and you should not have to mortgage your house to buy it. This guide walks through what actually separates a briefcase that lasts from one that falls apart, so you can buy once. If you just want our picks, jump to the best leather briefcases for men.
Step 1: Pick the type of briefcase
There are four main types of men’s leather briefcases. The right one depends on how formal your work is and how much you carry.
| Type | What it is | Carries | Looks | Example |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Attaché / traditional-carry | Slim, structured case with top handles and a detachable strap | Laptop, charger, files | Most formal | Jefferson Attaché |
| Belted briefcase bag | Deeper bag with a flap cover, buckles, and a top handle | Laptop, files, books, cords, extras | Professional, a little rugged | Roosevelt Briefcase Bag |
| Pilot bag | Tall, boxy bag with two handles, a zip top, and outside pockets | The most, plus travel gear | Less formal, still professional | Roosevelt Pilot Bag |
| Lightweight / unlined | A briefcase bag without lining or heavy hardware | Laptop, files, extras | Casual to professional | Walker Briefcase Bag |
Attaché and traditional-carry briefcases
Traditional-carry briefcases have top handles for carrying in your hand, at your side. Modern versions add a removable shoulder strap. They have the slimmest profiles and the cleanest, most polished look, which makes them the right call for law, finance, and client-facing work. The trade-off is room: a laptop, charger, and a few files fill one. Our Jefferson Attaché is only 2 inches deep. The Jefferson Briefcase is the same look with 4.2 inches of depth. Read attaché case vs. briefcase for how the two differ.
Belted briefcase bags
A briefcase bag with a belted flap combines the utility of a briefcase with the character of a rugged leather bag. The top handle is for grab-and-go, the shoulder strap is for hands-free carry, and the buckles add function and good looks. This is the most versatile type and the one most men end up with. See the Roosevelt Buffalo Leather Briefcase Bag and the suede-lined Roosevelt Leather Briefcase.
Pilot bags
A pilot bag does not look like a briefcase, but it works like one. It trades the flap cover for outside pockets that buckle or zip, uses two carry handles, and stands up on its own. It carries more than any other type and is the best choice if you travel for work. More in what is a flight bag.
Lightweight leather briefcases
If you want full-grain leather without the bulk, look for an unlined bag. Leaving out the lining and heavy hardware can cut the weight in half. Our Walker Briefcase Bag weighs about 2.5 pounds, compared with 5 to 6 pounds for a fully lined briefcase bag.
Step 2: Choose the leather
This is where most cheap briefcases cut corners, and where the label can mislead you. Leather is graded by which layer of the hide it comes from.
| Grade | What it is | Durability | Ages into patina? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full-grain | The whole top layer of the hide, with the natural grain left on | Highest | Yes |
| Top-grain | The top layer sanded and refinished to remove marks | Good | Somewhat |
| Genuine leather | A lower layer (split) of the hide, often painted and embossed | Low | No |
| Bonded leather | Leather scraps ground up and glued to a backing | Lowest | No, it peels |
Buy full-grain. It is the strongest part of the hide and the only kind that gets better with age. Every briefcase we make is full-grain. “Genuine leather” sounds reassuring, but it is a grade, and it is near the bottom.
Cowhide vs. water buffalo vs. bison
| Hide | Feel and look | Best for | Our briefcases |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cowhide | Smooth, even grain, takes a polish | Formal offices, a clean look | Jefferson, Walker |
| Water buffalo | Thicker, more texture, shows character and scratches that rub out | Everyday carry, rugged style | Roosevelt |
| Bison | Deep, open grain, very tough, heavy | A bag to keep for life | Ryder Reserve |
Leather thickness matters too. Our Roosevelt bags use water buffalo hide 1.8 to 2.0 mm thick, which is why they hold their shape and why they weigh more than a thin cowhide bag.
Step 3: Get the size right
Most briefcases are sold by the laptop screen size they fit, like “fits 15-inch laptops.” Screen size is measured diagonally, so two 15-inch laptops can have very different bodies. Do this instead:
- Measure your laptop’s width and depth with a tape measure, or look up its dimensions.
- Compare them to the laptop sleeve measurements on the product page. Every one of our briefcases lists them.
- Allow a little room. A sleeve an inch wider than the laptop is ideal. A laptop that just barely fits will strain the zipper.
- Then think about everything else: charger, files, notebook, lunch, a sweater. Pick depth for that.
| Depth | What fits | Example |
|---|---|---|
| 2 to 3.5 in. | Laptop, charger, a few files | Jefferson Attaché (2 in.), LE Roosevelt Laptop Briefcase (3.25 in.) |
| 4 to 5 in. | Add a notebook, tablet, and cords | Jefferson Briefcase (4.2 in.), Walker (4 in.) |
| 6 in. and up | Add a lunch, a sweater, a book | Ryder Reserve (6 in.), Roosevelt Briefcase Bag (8 in. with pockets) |
For a 16-inch or 17-inch laptop, skip the standard briefcases and look at a larger bag like the Roosevelt Pilot Bag Large, which fits most 17-inch laptops.
Step 4: Check the details that fail first
A briefcase usually does not die because the leather wears out. It dies at a zipper, a strap mount, or a seam. Check these before you buy.
- Zippers. Look for a named brand like YKK. Metal zippers outlast plastic.
- Hardware. Solid brass or nickel-finished buckles and rings, not painted pot metal. Brass ages into a warm tone.
- Stress points. Rivets or extra stitching where the handle and strap attach. This is where the weight pulls.
- Stitching. Thick, even stitches with no loose ends. Thicker nylon or polyester thread holds up better than thin cotton.
- Lining. Canvas is tough and easy to clean. Suede is soft and quiet. Unlined saves weight.
- Strap. Detachable, adjustable, and at least 1.5 to 2 inches wide. A padded strap is worth it if you carry more than 10 pounds.
- Closure. A zip or a secure flap on the main compartment, so nothing spills when the bag tips over.
Step 5: Decide on weight and price
Thick full-grain leather is heavy. A lined leather briefcase bag usually weighs 4 to 7 pounds empty. If you walk or ride transit, that matters, and a lightweight unlined bag may be the better choice. If you drive, weight matters less and you can have the thicker leather.
| Price range | What you usually get |
|---|---|
| Under $150 | Genuine or bonded leather, or leather trim on a fabric bag |
| $150 to $250 | Top-grain or thin full-grain, basic hardware |
| $250 to $400 | Full-grain leather, solid hardware, good zippers, real lining |
| $500 and up | Specialty hides like bison, or designer pricing |
Most of our full-grain briefcases fall between $280 and $375. The Ryder Reserve bison briefcase is $699.95.
Leather briefcase buying checklist
- Full-grain leather, and the listing says so
- Laptop sleeve measurements larger than your laptop
- Depth that fits what you carry every day
- YKK or metal zippers and solid hardware
- Rivets or reinforced stitching at the handle and strap
- Detachable, adjustable shoulder strap
- A weight you are happy to carry for a full day
- A warranty and a return window from the maker
Ready to shop? Browse all of our leather briefcases, or read our picks for the best leather briefcases for men.
Not sure where to start?
The Roosevelt Buffalo Leather Briefcase Bag checks every box on this list: full-grain buffalo leather, brass hardware, YKK zippers, and a 15-inch laptop sleeve.
$299.95
Shop the Roosevelt BriefcaseFrequently asked questions
How do I choose a leather briefcase?
Pick the type first (attaché, belted briefcase bag, pilot bag, or lightweight bag), then insist on full-grain leather, then match the laptop sleeve to your laptop’s actual dimensions and the depth to what you carry. Finish by checking zippers, hardware, stitching at stress points, and the shoulder strap.
What are the different types of briefcases?
The main types are the attaché case (slim, structured, top handles), the traditional briefcase, the briefcase bag (deeper, with a flap and buckles), the laptop briefcase (built around a laptop sleeve), and the pilot bag (tall, boxy, with outside pockets). Messenger bags and leather backpacks are common alternatives.
What is the best leather for a briefcase?
Full-grain leather. It keeps the whole top layer of the hide, so it is the strongest grade and the only one that develops a patina. Cowhide is smooth and formal, water buffalo is thicker and more rugged, and bison has the deepest grain.
Is genuine leather good for a briefcase?
Not really. Genuine leather is a grade made from a lower layer of the hide. It is often painted and embossed to look like full-grain, and it cracks and peels much sooner. Look for full-grain or at least top-grain.
What size briefcase do I need?
Measure your laptop’s width and depth and compare them to the laptop sleeve size on the product page, leaving about an inch of room. For depth, 2 to 3.5 inches holds a laptop and files, 4 to 5 inches adds a notebook and cords, and 6 inches or more adds a lunch or a sweater.
How much should a good leather briefcase cost?
About $250 to $400 for full-grain leather with solid hardware and good zippers. Below about $150 you are usually buying genuine or bonded leather. Specialty hides like bison cost more.
How heavy should a leather briefcase be?
A lined full-grain leather briefcase usually weighs 4 to 7 pounds empty. An unlined bag can weigh 2 to 3 pounds. If you walk or ride transit, choose a lighter bag.
Should a briefcase have a shoulder strap?
Yes, as long as it is detachable. A strap gives you a hands-free option on long walks and in airports, and you can remove it for a cleaner look in meetings.
Xan Hood founded Buffalo Jackson Trading Co. in 2009. He designs our bags and outerwear in Matthews, North Carolina. Prices and stock are as of the update date above and may change.